Wetting Organic Pigments for Acrylic Paint — How to Mull Color the Right Way

If you’ve ever tried to grind dry organic pigment straight into acrylic medium, you probably discovered the same frustrating problem: the powder refuses to mix. It floats, clumps, or turns into stubborn “fisheyes” that never disperse no matter how long you mull. This happens because most organic pigments are strongly hydrophobic — they repel water-based binders like acrylic emulsions. Some organic pigments are also very light and low density and will simply float on water.

Proper wetting is the missing step between dry pigment and smooth, professional-grade paint. Once you understand the chemistry, acrylic paint making becomes predictable, efficient, and far more vibrant.

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Why Organic Pigments Won’t Mix Into Acrylic

Acrylic paint is a waterborne polymer emulsion. The pigment particles must become coated with liquid before the acrylic binder can surround and lock them in place.

Organic pigments are manufactured to be chemically stable and resistant to solvents — great for durability, terrible for dispersion. Their surfaces contain non-polar aromatic structures that trap air and repel water.

So when you dump pigment into acrylic:

• Air sticks to the particle surface

• Water cannot penetrate agglomerates

• The binder cannot attach

• Clumps form instead of color development

You are not actually grinding pigment at this stage — you’re fighting surface tension.

Mulling only works after wetting occurs.

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The Correct Wetting Strategy

Before adding acrylic medium, you must first convert the pigment from a dry powder into a paste using a compatible wetting liquid. This replaces the air layer with a liquid layer the binder can adhere to.

Step 1 — Pre-Wet the Pigment

Place pigment on a glass slab and add a few drops at a time of a wetting agent:

Best universal wetting liquids

• Propylene glycol

• Ethanol + small amount of water (fast evaporating)

• Triton X100 or other nonionic surfactant solution

• Acrylic wetting additives (surfactant solutions)

Using a palette knife, press and smear until every particle darkens evenly. The powder should transform into a smooth butter-like paste.

Important:
You are not trying to thin it — only eliminate dry powder.  If you use a surfactant solution, dissolve surfactant in water first to make a 10% solution.  Applying too much can cause foaming and pinholes in dry coating.

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Step 2 — Mull the Paste

Now use a glass muller:

• Circular grinding motion

• Firm downward pressure

• Periodically scrape and regroup

You will notice a dramatic color shift — this is called color development . It happens because the pigment particles separate into their primary particle size and reflect light correctly.  With a palate knife you can "draw down" some of your wetted pigment on a glass plate and shine a light through it to see if agglomerates are broken up evenly.

At this stage the pigment is actually dispersing.

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Step 3 — Introduce Acrylic Medium

Only after the pigment paste is fully smooth should acrylic medium of choice be added.

Add small portions and mull between additions.

This prevents shock flocculation — a common mistake where the binder locks pigment aggregates permanently.

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Recognizing Proper Dispersion

Well-dispersed paint has:

• Glossy uniform appearance

• No graininess when spread thin

• Maximum tinting strength

• No floating specks in a drawdown

Poorly wetted pigment looks dull and weak even if the color is strong in powder form.

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Why Wetting Improves Color Strength

Dry pigment exists as microscopic clusters called agglomerates. Light cannot penetrate them efficiently, so the color appears chalky and weak.

Wetting + mulling breaks agglomerates into primary particles:

• More surface area interacts with light

• Transparency increases

• Saturation increases

• Less pigment needed per batch

You’re not adding color — you’re revealing it.

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Common Mistakes to Avoid

Adding acrylic first
Creates permanent clumps the muller cannot fix.

Adding too much liquid
Produces a wash instead of a grind.

Skipping mulling
Leads to weak tinting strength and poor hiding power.

Trying to disperse in water alone
Water cannot wet hydrophobic pigments without a surfactant or co-solvent.

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Advanced Tip — Why Glycols Work Best

Glycols act as a bridge between hydrophobic pigment and water-based acrylic:

• One end interacts with pigment surface

• The other interacts with water and polymer emulsion

• Prevents reflocculation after grinding

This is why professional dispersions nearly always contain humectants or surfactants.

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Final Thoughts

Making your own acrylic paint is not just mixing powder into binder — it’s a controlled surface chemistry process. The real secret isn’t force… it’s compatibility.

Once the pigment is properly wetted, the muller suddenly feels effortless, the color blooms instantly, and the paint behaves like a commercial product.

Master wetting, and you master dispersion.

Your pigments already contain the color — wetting simply unlocks it.

Be sure to fully investigate the properties of the pigment in question!  Both from the manufacturer as well as independent sources!  Some pigments are unsuitable for acrylic mediums because of the mediums sensitivity to pH swings.  With proper due diligence and care, making your own acrylic paints can be both rewarding and money saving.  Not to mention the intimate bond you’ll like form with your materials!

Why You Should Never Use Cheap Off-Brand Angle Grinder Cutoff Wheels for Metal Cutting

Why You Should Never Use Cheap Off-Brand Angle Grinder Cutoff Wheels for Metal Cutting

When it comes to metalworking, your angle grinder is only as good as the cutoff wheel you mount on it. While it may be tempting to save a few dollars by buying cheap off-brand cutoff wheels, the long-term costs—both financial and safety-related—can far outweigh the initial savings. Investing in trusted brand angle grinder cutoff wheels and buying them in bulk is a smarter, safer, and more professional approach.

If you’re serious about metal fabrication, welding, automotive work, or DIY steel projects, here’s why quality matters

1. Safety First: Cheap Cutoff Wheels Are a Real Hazard

Angle grinders operate at extremely high RPM—often 10,000 to 12,000 revolutions per minute. At those speeds, a poorly manufactured cutoff wheel can fail catastrophically.

Cheap off-brand cutoff wheels often suffer from:

• Inconsistent resin bonding
• Lower-quality abrasive grit
• Poor fiberglass reinforcement
• Uneven thickness or density

When a cutoff wheel shatters, fragments can become high-velocity projectiles. Even with proper PPE, wheel failure is one of the most dangerous grinder accidents.

Trusted brands invest in:

• Strict quality control
• Balanced wheel construction
• Reinforced fiberglass mesh layers
• Proper curing of bonding resins

The difference in structural integrity is not marketing hype—it’s physics and materials science.

2. Performance: Cheap Wheels Cut Slower and Wear Out Faster

A quality metal cutoff wheel maintains its edge longer and cuts more efficiently. Off-brand wheels often glaze over, shed grit prematurely, or wear unevenly. I can tell you from personal experience on this one!  I once purchased Warrior brand cutoff wheels from Harbor Freight and I was astonished how quickly they wore out!  If making a long cut in sheet steel, often a wheel would be reduced to useless often with a single cut!  So I have switched to recognized brands for angle grinder accessories.  One company I’ve personally been very pleased with is Bemchmark Abstasives!  You can get their 4 ½ cutoff wheels in a 25 bulk price with this link.

This leads to:

• Slower cutting speeds
• More pressure required
• Increased heat buildup
• Shorter wheel lifespan

If you’re cutting steel plate, tubing, or solid bar—especially harder alloys—you’ll immediately notice the difference. A premium cutoff wheel cuts clean and straight with less force.

In real-world use, cheap wheels frequently cost more per cut because they:

• Burn up quickly
• Shrink in diameter rapidly
• Require frequent replacement

What looks cheaper at checkout becomes more expensive in the shop.

3. Reduced Heat and Cleaner Cuts

Lower-quality abrasive wheels often create excess friction. That heat transfers into your metal, which can:

• Discolor stainless steel
• Harden certain steels at the cut edge
• Cause warping in thin materials
• Increase burr formation

High-quality angle grinder cutoff wheels use better abrasive blends (often aluminum oxide or zirconia formulations) that cut aggressively without excessive heat.

The result?

• Straighter cuts
• Cleaner edges
• Less cleanup time
• Better weld prep

For professionals and serious hobbyists, time saved on cleanup alone justifies buying better wheels.

4. Consistency Matters in Metal Fabrication

If you’re doing repetitive cuts—whether for a production run, fabrication project, or YouTube build—you need consistency.

Off-brand wheels often vary from batch to batch. One might cut decently. The next might wobble, vibrate, or wear unevenly.

Trusted manufacturers provide:

• Tight thickness tolerances
• Balanced wheel geometry
• Reliable performance across batches

Consistency improves:

• Cut accuracy
• Workflow efficiency
• Overall craftsmanship

When you’re aiming for precision in steel fabrication, consistency is everything.

5. Grinder Wear and Operator Fatigue

Cheap cutoff wheels don’t just wear out faster—they can stress your angle grinder.

Poorly balanced wheels cause:

• Vibration
• Bearing wear
• Spindle stress
• Increased operator fatigue

That vibration translates directly into:

• Less control
• Rougher cuts
• More physical strain

High-quality cutoff wheels are balanced and engineered to run smoothly at full RPM. That means smoother operation, less fatigue, and longer grinder life.

6. Why Buying Cutoff Wheels in Bulk Saves Money

If you use angle grinder cutoff wheels regularly, buying in bulk from a trusted brand makes financial sense.

Here’s why:

Lower Cost Per Wheel

Bulk packs significantly reduce per-unit cost compared to single blister packs from big-box stores.

Consistent Inventory

Nothing slows down shop productivity like running out mid-project.

Same Batch Consistency

Bulk purchases usually come from the same production lot, ensuring consistent performance across all wheels.

For serious metalworkers, welders, or fabricators, buying premium cutoff wheels in bulk is simply smart inventory management.

7. When Cheap Tools Cost More Than Money

As someone who appreciates the craftsmanship side of metalworking—the right alloy, the right heat, the right tool—you know that tool selection matters. Using a low-grade cutoff wheel undermines that precision mindset.

The few dollars saved upfront are not worth:

• Increased injury risk
• Poor cut quality
• Rework time
• Grinder damage
• Frustration

In metalworking, quality tools aren’t a luxury—they’re part of the process.